A New Trend?
Is it a new trend in the making? There is a denial: the quiet luxury is not a new concept. The term ‘conspicuous consumption’ was used by Thorsten Weblen in his book The theory of the Leisure Class in 1899. British Vogue describes the trend as more of a mood than anything else and essentially a synonym for elevated basics. The term has also been used in every field from interiors to holidays as a way to emphasise niche tastes and unobtrusive displays of wealth. The wealthy individuals and ‘old money’ (trendy term used for people who inherited wealth) have been opting for understated garments throughout history. If it is so, then why is the term gaining traction in 2023? The answer lies in the increased adoption of this trend. Recent times have seen a wardrobe shift caused by the economic climate, driven by a return to polished and refined designs, a cleaner, minimalistic aesthetic and preference for understated elegance and quality craftsmanship. The denial puts forward a counterpoint: this is the fashion cycle epitomised by Gen Z’s obsession of categorising things into trends so that content can be put out alongside them. With rise of social media and the democratisation of fashion, quiet luxury has become more accessible to the masses and is no longer just for elite.
Debate Continues
Some fashion critics feel that stealth wealth is not a real, growing phenomenon among the wealthy themselves. According to Rachel Tashjian, how wealthy actually dress is more complicated than a single unified look. Some rich people ignore fashion while others strap in for the roller coaster. Even the brands that epitomise stealth wealth are not exactly well-kept secrets as one can buy Loro Piana baseball cap online or from several retailers including Nordstrom. While many wealthy people wear neutral, good-quality clothes just as a lot of non-rich people go for versatile basics in accordance with their income brackets, some wealthy people also buy the inane, logo-bedecked brands that stealth wealth urges them to discard. This means wealthy people also dress up as good or bad as most of non-wealthy do. They may be expensively dressed but not all necessarily well-dressed. This makes quiet luxury more of an imagined trend than anything else – an idea of a trend inspired by a mistaken, stylised notion of how the wealthy live their glamorous lives.
Financial Crises Impact
According to trade press, the trend which appeared on podiums over the last few years is not really a trend. It is a recurring movement that follows, believe it or not, the financial crises and major stock-exchange panic. As a result, the ostentatious luxury then gets challenged for a while, influenced by the fear of public criticism. The 2008-recession is a case in point: after the crash of the American bank Lehman Brothers and the global financial crisis that followed, catwalks turned more discreet. During that period, designers put forth collections defined by understated elegance, appealing to consumers looking for quality and longevity as opposed to opulent statements in their closets. One of the most desirable brands in the segment at that moment was Celine from LVMH group which still had its elegant accent on the “e”. Its collections were designed by renowned British Stylist Phoebe Philo who is now set to launch her own brand in September 2023. The prominent symbol of quiet luxury, Bottega Veneta, owned by the Kering group, ruled and still rules in this discreet luxury world, thanks to an active ‘No Logo’ policy.
Developments Thereafter
Between 2008 and 2023 crises, other brands such as The Row appeared and became much sought-after by silent luxury aficionados. Last year, in order to tone down Gucci, the Kering group ended its contract with Alessandro Michele. During his seven year-stint, Michele had transformed the Italian brand with its dazzling and ‘luxury’ fashion. As the times are no longer about luxury circus, he was replaced in January 2023 by designer Sabato de Sarno having a past with brands of repute such as Prada, Dolce & Gabbana and Valentino, to bring back discretion at Gucci.
The quiet luxury is getting trendy even in countries like Switzerland, not known for its ornate extravaganza. Whether it is the brands Akris – sought-after by Princess of Monaco, or even the very recent KA/NOA – launched by Bruno Grande and his wife Valerie in September 2017, quiet luxury is finding its way in new markets.
Salient Features
The quiet luxury is relatively more understated and sophisticated than traditional trade, besides getting made from high-quality materials. One of its many striking features, minimalism certainly plays a large part in the stealth wealth look, from a muted colour palette to classic silhouettes but what really defines the concept of quiet luxury are the high-quality fabrics – cashmere, merino, vicuna, leather, organic cotton, silk, linen, suede etc. The colour palette almost always sticks to dark or neutral tones with occasional flash of colour that may include black, navy, tan and nudes and neutrals, with accents of fall tones in the colder months and pastel tones in spring and summer. Patterns are classic such as stripes and checks, avoiding flamboyancy of any sort. In addition, the designs are also there to last for years to come. It certainly aims to show taste and sophistication without being flashy. For those who look for a way to add a touch of luxury to their wardrobe, quiet luxury comes as a great option – a trend that definitely turns heads without being too much over-the-top.
Advantage ‘Sustainability’
The term ‘quiet luxury’ may arguably be a new trend in fashion but the principle and philosophy behind it are not. Inadvertently, the quiet luxury comes as an antithesis of fast fashion because it focuses on thoughtful shopping and wearing true investment pieces. This approach establishes the trend as a juxtaposition to the logomania that was trending over the past few years, providing more minimalist approach to dressing. This expands definition of quiet luxury as the shopping with intention to have pieces that last, rather than those which remain trendy only for a particular season. The thought — working with high-quality materials – makes it important to create garments that should last for a long time, silently contributes to the cause of sustainable fashion.
Key Drivers
Post-pandemic there arose a need to dress up performatively resulting in streetwear and sportswear giving way to more formal or sartorial looks. Then there is youth’s continued obsession with 90s fashion trends but the last of them coming through, appealing not to youth alone but much wider age group, is 90s minimalism – a look that aligns beautifully to stealth wealth dressing and low-key luxury.
Quiet luxury is gaining traction owing to several factors such as, a backlash against the flashy and noisy aesthetics of pop culture, as well as the prevailing economic conditions that have left many consumers grappling with financial uncertainty. Consequently, they are increasingly seeking to make smarter investments in the form of high-quality, timeless pieces that will endure and ultimately prove more cost-effective. The show Succession on HBO has contributed to the rising popularity of the trend. The characters on the show are frequently shown adorned in refined, classic pieces that convey an air of sophistication and refinement, thereby increasing the appeal of these styles among viewers. In March, Hollywood star Gwyneth Paltrow was seen wearing high-end brands in her daily courtroom appearances in regard to her ski accident (of 2016) trial. Among others, she was spotted wearing Celine and The Row along with $1,450 black Prada boots and carried a $325 notebook by Smythson in the company’s signature blue. More than trial, it was her quiet luxury attire that attracted media and public attention. All these factors combined, directly and indirectly, have contributed to the growing consumer demand for understated luxury.
BNPL Effect
Today, fashion retailers offer convenient payment methods like Buy Now Pay Later (BNPL) to attract and retain customers. Likewise, those who choose to invest in quality over quantity also have the option of BNPL and payment providers like PayPal. This has made quiet luxury brands like Brunello Cucinelli and Loro Piana to have these options available on their websites too. Using BNPL options makes shopping more accessible and convenient for younger consumers, enabling them to purchase items that they may not have been able to afford otherwise. This has further helped in enhancing their interest in quiet luxury. As per PYMNTS’ February 2022 BNPL Tracker, the adoption of BNPL was primarily driven by millennials and Gen Z, with former representing the largest group of BNPL users.
Trending Stats
On TikTok, the term ‘quiet luxury’ has amassed more than 38.5 billion views. The fashion website Hypebeast counted 1.4 billion views for ‘stealth wealth meaning’ on TikTok as evidence that the kids are dying to save up and swathe themselves in cashmere or more likely to buy budget-friendly knit blends. According to Google statistics, the term along with ‘stealth wealth’ and ‘old money style’ has experienced a 900 per cent increase in searches. What these stats reflect is the fact that high-fashion consumers are increasingly turning to well-made basics rather than flaunting expensive statement pieces. According to data research company EDITED, the luxury online brands’ output of new apparel, handbags and footwear featuring logos has declined by 18 per cent y-o-y. The patterned pieces comprise only 23 per cent of luxury fashion compared to 27 per cent in 2022. The research company also observed colour options receiving the ‘quiet’ treatment on Prada and Miu Miu’s recent runways with black apparel increasing by 11 per cent, brown by 59 per cent and grey by 64 per cent on yearly basis. The research findings hold true on ground as well. All of a sudden, more accessible stores such as H&M and Zara can be seen selling non-descript, generously cut trousers and oversize button-downs and double-breasted blazers and grandpa loafers.
While the stats keep a tab on growing trend of quiet luxury, a probe into what some of the key players in the segment are doing is equally important.
The Row
If there is any luxury brand that defines ‘quiet luxury’ in true sense, it has to be The Row. Founded in 2001 by two sisters Mary- Kate and Ashley Olsen, the brand thrives on the essence of pared-back minimalism. The brand’s detailing is in the undone aesthetic which The Row takes prides in doing. The Row has transcended past being a celebrity brand and has become a secret club which its clients want to be a part of. Way back in 2006, The Row was not exactly an aspirational one but as of 2023, this logo-less label rivals esteemed brands for desirability with its costly staples, lust-worthy accessories and exacting eye for detail. In January and February 2023, the searches for The Row were up 185 per cent versus the same period last year. Known for their lack of social media presence, the Olsen sisters, whenever and whatever brief public appearance they make, are always subject to much speculation. Their ‘shy-away’ stand from rampant social media in today’s hyper-PR era makes them even more fascinating. It is their clothing that reflects their inner confidence, projecting them as future fashion heirlooms in the making.
Brunello Cucinelli
Among the top brands in the quiet luxury segment, the Solomeo (Italy)- headquartered designer brand has built an empire on foundation of understated luxury on the highest level. The designer is renowned for the use of the finest fabrics, especially in his cashmere and leather creations. Pioneer of the casual tailoring movement, Cucinelli was one of the first to incorporate elevated casualwear silhouettes with his relaxed brand of unstructured Italian tailoring. In the first quarter ended March 31, 2023, the brand witnessed sales growth of 33 per cent at constant exchange rates. The increase was mainly attributed to performance in the Americas and a resurgence in Asia, driven by a growing trend of ‘quiet luxury’.
Positioning itself successfully in the segment, the brand has adopted relatively a ‘quiet’ marketing approach. Rather than heavily relying on celebrity endorsement, Brunello Cucinelli sets its sights on socially influential figures. It started a project titled ‘Be Your Change’ in 2021, inviting those guests who share the brand’s values to tell their personal stories on a video and podcast series. Olympian skier Eileen Gu and Chinese fashion entrepreneur and philanthropist Wendy Yu are among such very interesting people. The designer wants new generation not to believe everything they see on social media, but rather work and face challenges of real life – a guiding philosophy behind brand’s quiet marketing.
Luca Faloni
Yet another brand from Italy, Luca Faloni is part of a new wave of D2C companies that are offering luxury men’s clothing without the associated markup that comes with top-end designer labels. Luca Faloni is a cashmere specialist which sources only the finest yarns from the country’s renowned Cariaggi factory and then handcrafts its garments using leading artisans within the famed Marche region. The brand offers pure cashmere and silk-cashmere blends with the range running the full gamut of contemporary menswear including everything from blazers and sweaters to zip-through cardigans and pullover hoodies that are available in luxurious fabrics. The palette is muted and versatile with no visible branding, allowing the quality of garments to shine brightest.
Jil Sander
Although Jil Sander started in 1960s, it is her devotion to the 1990s minimalism that gave her real clothing power. The brand continues to focus on the look but has not totally blocked off playfulness to the mix by adding saturated shades, fringe cascades, and fun embellishments to its quiet luxury. Now under the creative direction of husband-and-wife team Luke and Lucie Meiers, the pair has faithfully prolonged Sander’s love of clean lines and minimalist shapes, making the brand a fashion-forward option for the stealth wealth crowd. It is all about the silhouette at Jil Sander, the Meiers have delivered a fresh take with unique contemporary cuts offering something very different to the rest of the industry. The garments reflect an inherent art that is difficult to point out as well as elements of avant-gardism – all downplayed with a muted colour palette and spare use of pattern and print, marked by no logo anywhere.
Hermes
Hermes looks to expand amid ‘quiet luxury’ boom, as it has added to its leather empire through an environmentally conscious factory in Normandy, France. Driven by growing environmental concerns surrounding leather production, the factory is expected to up the leather production of the fashion house. The facility will nurture artisanal practices against the backdrop of a sustainably run workshop. The factory is primarily designated to meet increased demand for the house’s emblematic Kelly bag – colloquially referred to as the Birkin’s older sister, conceived in 1923. Earlier known as Sac a Depeches, the bag was renamed as Kelly in 1979 owing to popularity of film star and Princess of Monaco, Grace Kelly. The opening of factory is seen as merely an aspect to the brand’s broader expansion which comes amid increased sales in China and in line with ‘quiet luxury’ earning a place at the forefront of the zeitgeist – a trend associated with the Logans’ understated wares on HBO’s Succession, and revival of the ‘old money aesthetic’ on TikTok. Fabricated by French Lebanese architect Lina Ghotmeh, the E4C2- labelled (an accreditation that assesses the performance of a new building according to E – energy and C – carbon) building enjoys generous natural light and ventilation; reduced artificial lighting, heating and air conditioning; and, geothermal or power supplied by solar panels. The building’s landscape has retained the vast majority of the site’s trees in order to preserve local biodiversity, hence additionally equipped with a system for recovering and directing rainwater into the water table. The pre-building excavations revealed the site was used for leather work as far back as the Palaeolithic period. Alongside Kelly bag, the factory will also produce the brand’s smaller Constance bag and horse saddles, making it the first saddle-making factory outside Paris.
Loro Piana
Loro Piana – the heritage Italian label, is a stealth luxury brand that’s quietly influencing its clients’ wardrobes. With annual sales of over $1 billion, the label sets global standards for knitwear with neither lavish fashion shows nor A-list ambassadors. It works primarily in fine wool, cashmere and uber-rare vicuna (a South American relative of llama that produces super-soft, very slow-growing hair). Loro Piana’s clients are said to be so rich that extremely luxurious cashmere is seen as standard day wear for them. It was paparazzi moment when the Duchess of Sussex wore a maroon cashmere suit by Loro Piana for a visit to New York in 2021. Movie stars Sharon Stone, Uma Thurman and Eddie Redmayne wear it too. Even Russian President Vladmir Putin wore Loro Piana puffer coat for one of his interminable speeches about invading Ukraine. Character Kendall Roy in HBO’s Succession has one of the most interesting wardrobes on the show that includes Loro Piana’s $5,855 polo shirts and $625 baseball caps.
The label has no flashy bling and bright colours, just impeccably cut forever pieces crafted from the finest materials. To date, its marketing efforts have been limited to equestrian competitions and sailing regattas – the usual hobbies of super-rich. The ultimate stealth wealth strategy of the label is to make profits from its ready-to-wear on one hand, and also sell fabrics to Savile Row tailors and luxury knitwear brands on the other hand. The company’s aim: wherever the luxury customers go for their clothes, they must end up buying Loro Piana at some stage – knowingly or unknowingly. The fashion label has additionally embraced the metaverse to enhance its unique take on quiet luxury by harnessing technology to promote transparency and traceability across its high-end clothing and accessories.
Future of Quiet Luxury
Perhaps, fashion is just reaching the tail end of logomania, and the stealth wealth styles are offering a much-needed break from the chaos. The situation has sparked an expectation that many brands will take the quiet luxury route when crafting their next collections as consumers continue to opt for safer styles across many demographics. This will indeed strengthen the quiet luxury position in fashion world. The trend is likely to continue and grow in popularity in the years to come. As consumers become more discerning and demanding, they are looking for brands that offer more than just a flashy logo. They are looking for brands that offer quality, craftsmanship, and timeless design and the search is expected to continue amidst uncertainties of today’s world, as experienced during the beginning of the current decade.
