Hot springs, a ghost town, canyonlands, rugged beaches, bakeries and cranberry bogs are just a few of the destinations that drew The Oregonian/OregonLive’s travel reporters from one corner of Oregon to the next in 2023. You can hear Vickie Connor and Jamie Hale talk about their adventures on their weekly Peak Northwest Podcast, watch Samantha Swindler’s travel videos on TikTok and Instagram or read all of their stories on hereisoregon.com.
These are their favorite trips of 2023.
Owyhee Canyonlands
The Owyhee Canyonlands have long been at the top of my get-to list. The only thing standing in my way? The long, long, long drive to get there. The rugged high desert destination on the far eastern side of Oregon is strikingly beautiful, with strange rock formations emerging from riverside canyons, the ground full of jasper and agate.
From Portland, I drove nearly seven hours to Lake Owyhee State Park, where I kayaked and explored, camping for two nights on the rim of the quiet reservoir. It was another two and a half hours of driving to reach nearby Leslie Gulch, where I spent a day hiking through narrow canyons and up into amphitheaters of honeycombed rock. Like stepping onto another world, the awesome landscape (including the drive to get there) is unforgettable.
–Jamie Hale
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Bend bakery tour
I love becoming a connoisseur of something exceptionally specific. This year, it was the many local bakeries of Bend. Inspired by the famous Ocean Roll at The Sparrow Bakery, and with several days dedicated to the task, I was determined to find out what other treats the central Oregon city had to offer. I did not leave disappointed.
There was the mouthwatering Oregon Roll, filled with marionberry jam and topped with a hazelnut glaze, made at the charming Café des Chutes. A take on the Belgian Liège waffle, complete with pearl sugar for pockets of sweetness, was a favorite at Lone Pine Coffee Roasters, which makes them fresh daily. On my last day, I joined a crowd of locals at Thump Coffee, which is mastering the art of the croissant, and toured the many colorful delights at The Pantry, including a cornmeal scone topped with lavender flowers.
–J.H.
Breitenbush Hot Springs
Amid a busy spring travel season, I took a detour into the central Cascade Mountains to spend two nights at Breitenbush Hot Springs, an idyllic getaway nestled into a beautiful old growth forest – or at least it used to be. In 2020, Breitenbush nearly burned to the ground when wildfire swept through. This year, the resort unveiled several new lodging options as it continued to welcome guests back.
With so little to do at Breitenbush, guests are practically forced into a state of relaxation. Hot springs, spread out around the property, are open 24/7, allowing you to soak morning, noon and even late at night, when warm steam obscures the twinkling stars. Meals, which come with the price of lodging and are both delicious and nourishing, are served up three times a day, allowing you the freedom of never thinking about food. Here, the mantra is sleep, soak, eat, repeat.
–J.H.
Ghost town of Shaniko
Oregon has its share of hotels that claim to be haunted, but the newly reopened Shaniko Hotel might be the only one located in an actual ghost town. In August, I had the chance to be the first — and only — guest in the hotel, which is so small, even the staff leave at night.
The Shaniko Hotel was built in 1900, when the Wasco County boom town was an important rail hub for central Oregon farmers, sheep herders and wool buyers. Today, Shaniko is composed of about two dozen residents and a handful of Old West era buildings clustered together on a vast plain along U.S. 97.
During my visit, I’m pretty sure I met just about everyone in Shaniko, from the firefighters who operate the hotel to the musicians who run the gas station and the Shaniko Chapel, to the DJ who runs the town’s little pirate radio station. For a ghost town, there’s lots to explore. The town has an ice cream parlor, an antique store and a general store, and the original city hall with the old jail open to visitors.
— Samantha Swindler
Oregon’s cranberry capital
Late October is the start of the cranberry harvest along the southern Oregon coast. I spent two days in Langlois, just south of Bandon, watching local farmers flood and harvest their cranberry bogs. Oregon is the fourth-largest cranberry producer in the country, and nearly all of the state’s cranberries are grown in the wet, temperate climate of the coast. The coast is misty and moody that time of year: a peak Oregon experience.
Because Oregon cranberries are able to ripen longer on the vines, they’re considered some of the sweetest cranberries – but we’re still talking cranberries, so sweetness is a relative term. The best way to enjoy Oregon cranberries is with a bit of “doctoring up” in various cranberry projects, and there’s no shortage of those in the Bandon area. I came home with a bounty of cranberry goods: cranberry sauce, salsa, syrup, fudge, mustard and (one of my favorites) cranberry ketchup.
— S.S.
The Oregon Outback
The high desert of south central Oregon, known as the Oregon Outback, is unlike anything you’ll find in other parts of the state. I spent two nights at Summer Lake Hot Springs, a rustic outpost with natural hot springs and a stunning view of the stars. Summer Lake is within the Basin and Range Dark Sky Cooperative, an area with minimal lighting to interfere with views of the night sky.
In the nearby community of Paisley, I got a drink at the Pioneer Saloon, the oldest continually operating bar in the state, and took a ride to the Paisley Caves, believed to hold evidence of the oldest known site of human occupation in North America.
About an hour north in Silver Lake, I was treated to a fine 30-ounce steak dinner from the Cowboy Dinner Tree. Make your reservations early. This rural outpost only has two menu items, is cash-only, and is booked out for months – for good reason.
— S.S.
Boardman Corridor
The southernmost strip of the Oregon coast has arguably the most breathtaking views in the state. From rugged cliffs to secret beaches to endless sea stacks, Samuel H. Boardman State Scenic Corridor has 12 miles of beaches and viewpoints.
I spent a short July weekend exploring the area and made my home base Brookings, the town just south of the corridor. My advice is to start at the northern-most point of the corridor and drive south. Views and pull-outs will be easily accessible on the right side of the road, and they’ll be well-marked.
Start early in the morning to try and maximize your time at the many viewpoints. My favorites? Arch Rock, Secret Beach and Natural Bridges. After your long day of exploring, be sure to stop at Kaya Sushi for a delicious dinner and time to soak in all your memories.
Extra tip: Stop at the Prehistoric Gardens while heading north to drive home, especially if you’re traveling with kids.
— Vickie Connor
Tree Climbing at Silver Falls
This spring, I traveled to Silver Falls State Park to film an episode of Peak Northwest. My typical visits to this park include a hike through the Trail of 10 Falls. But this was anything but typical. I went to climb a 300-foot-tall Douglas Fir.
Tree Climbing at Silver Falls is a program at the park that teaches you to recreationally make your way up some of the largest and rarest trees in the world. Be forewarned: this is quite the physically rigorous and time-consuming adventure. But the views at the top are epic and worth it. Especially if you climb at sunset. You’ll be provided with all the safety equipment required, including a helmet, harness, glasses and gloves. A guide will teach you and support you the whole way through.
–V.C.
