Okay, so “Retinol Reek” Is Totally a Thing—Derms Say This Is the Antidote

Quick question: Does your retinol serum, um, smell? It’s not necessarily a bad scent, per se, but it’s definitely noticeable—a funk that leans slightly floral, a tad sour, sometimes with a hint of garlic or vinegar. I never thought too much about it (after all, a funky odor is a small price to pay for the ingredient’s skin-smoothing benefits), but then I tested a new serum that actively aims to enhance the retinol scent experience, and I realized my prior formulas had a very specific stench—one I’m officially calling the “retinol reek.”

Efficacy is top priority when it comes to skincare products, but still, a top-notch sensorial experience is important. After all, retinol works best when you actually use it, so if the scent (or texture, for that matter) keeps you from applying, that’s an important factor to address. So, with the help of some trusted derms, I got to the bottom of retinol reek once and for all. Here’s how to keep it from derailing your skincare routine.

Why Does Retinol Smell?

You’re not imagining the retinol reek! “Retinol naturally has a distinctive chemical smell that some people notice more strongly in potent formulas,” explains board-certified dermatologist Marisa Garshick, MD, FAAD. “This scent comes from the retinol itself, as well as the ingredients and preservatives used to stabilize it.”

Retinol as a pure, raw ingredient—aka retinoic acid—typically has a floral smell. “That said, I have heard retinoic acid– and retinol-containing products described as having a vinegar or garlic-like smell,” adds board-certified dermatologist Sara Hogan, MD, FAAD. “This depends on the product formulation—the stability of the product, combination of ingredients, delivery system, etc.”

See, some formulas include “masking” ingredients, such as a very low concentration of essential oils, to disguise the pure retinol smell. “Retinol products that have the unpleasant smell usually don’t have any ‘masking’ scent added,” says board-certified dermatologist Loretta Ciraldo, MD, FAAD, founder of Dr. Loretta. Some brands opt for fragrance-free formulas to prevent the risk of irritation, which can make the natural retinol reek more noticeable, especially if it’s a more potent formula. (Generally, the higher the concentration, the smellier the retinol may be.)

But it’s important to know the difference between run-of-the-mill retinol reek and a retinol that’s actually gone rancid. “The chemical smell of retinol is typically normal and not a cause for concern,” notes Garshick. “However, if the smell becomes particularly sour, rancid, or unusual compared to when you first opened the product, it could indicate that the retinol has degraded. This can also be accompanied by changes in texture, color (darkening), or a drop in effectiveness.” Essentially, if the reek gets worse or alters in any way, you might have an expired product on your hands—and no one wants that.

What to Do About It

Retinol reek isn’t exactly cause for concern, but if it bothers you, know that you have options.

First, you can layer your products to your advantage. “If you have a skincare product with a pleasant smell, like a moisturizer or sleep mask, see if you can apply the pleasantly scented product over the retinol product to blunt the scent of the retinol,” offers Ciraldo. Even a fragrance-free moisturizer might be enough to neutralize the retinol funk; it just may take some trial and error. Garshick notes you can also mix your retinol serum with your moisturizer to soften the smell. “Though this might slightly reduce potency,” she says.

You could also just seek out a less smelly retinol serum. “If a smell is bothersome to an individual, this is going to affect consistency in use, so I recommend finding another product that is suitable for them,” adds Hogan. “There are many retinol-containing product formulations on the market.” In fact, a handful of recent launches actually prioritize the sensorial experience with gentle, fresh scents and glorious textures.

Take Glow Recipe’s new Blackberry Retinol Blemish Serum, for example. Well-known for its innovative, sensorially appealing formulas, the brand certainly had the look and feel (and smell!) in mind when introducing its first-ever retinol product.

“Glow Recipe skincare is anchored in Korean skincare philosophies, which include sensorial textures and experiences that ultimately promote regular use within your skincare routine for long-term results,” says Christine Chang, co-founder and co-CEO of the brand. “We’ve heard feedback from our community that retinol treatments have not always been enjoyable to use, and we wanted to rethink the experience by creating a lightweight, milky gel texture that is infused with a small amount of 100% naturally derived, essential oil–free fragrance.” I personally find it a joy to apply (no retinol reek!), and at the same time, it puts in the work—the 0.16% triple retinoid blend of retinal, retinol, and retinyl ester has cleared up the congestion on my forehead in record time.

Medik8 similarly calls upon botanical extracts (like honeysuckle flower, tonka bean, and vanilla) to lightly perfume its recently launched Crystal Retinal 24 serum. The Crystal Retinal collection is a favorite among the WWW beauty team (Beauty Director Erin Jahns and associate beauty editor Shawna Hudson are obsessed), and multiple reviewers have commented on the elegant yet subtle scent. Its peachy hue (most retinol products are tinged yellow) makes it even more of a pleasure to apply.

You can snag both of those formulas below, as well as six more sensorially appealing retinol serums aiming to (finally!) make retinol reek a thing of the past.

8 Retinol Products With an Incredible Experience