The Hamptons in the summer is like Midtown Manhattan on New Year’s Eve: a good idea if you like giant clusters of bodies and getting ripped off. A “local” Hamptons lobster roll will set you back $45, and the August beach crowds recall the cosiness of Times Square.
But there’s another kind of summer weekend out there, and it’s not that far off. Actually, exactly as far as the Hamptons: just two-and-a-half hours’ drive from Manhattan, Long Island’s less-travelled North Fork (the Hamptons makes up the South Fork) has become the cooler peninsula. At various times dubbed the Hamptons’ “country cousin” and the “Brooklyn of Long Island,” it’s known by the easy-going locals as NoFo. Chill holidaymakers are drawn to the former farmland’s waterfront wineries, tucked-away beaches, boutiquey design stores and roadside farm stands. Even with a slew of upscale new openings, the North Fork has managed to maintain a vibe that’s unapologetically relaxed.
In June, François Payard, a leading light in New York’s French food scene, opened the Southold Social, an intimate shingled house that serves the most killer steak frites on the peninsula. Payard also oversees Southold General down the road, a Manhattanite-friendly café serving flaky almond croissants, farm-fresh salads and cold brew on tap. North Fork Table & Inn, from Michelin-starred John Fraser, is the other big hitter in town. It underwent a total renovation in 2021 and now offers a tantalising menu of oysters, caviar, and catches of the day – and bookable personal bonfires for making s’mores.
But food is not the point of the North Fork: alcohol is. While the South Fork has a mere three wineries, the North Fork has close to 50, and about a dozen breweries. The cheaper real estate made it the better peninsula for planting fields of grapes – almost all French – back in the day. North Fork wineries like to boast that they’re on the same latitude as Bordeaux, producing reds that give their French counterparts a run for their money.
In June, journalist Dan Abrams opened Ev&Em Vineyards, a swish Napa-esque spot with sun-drenched decks where guests can taste its flagship wines while drinking in the sprawling views. Another standout is Sparkling Pointe, New York’s only dedicated sparkling vineyard, specialising in Méthode Champenoise. You can sip brut dating back to 2013 – medieval times by Long Island wine standards.
