The Telfar tote bag, first launched in 2015, was a watershed moment in men’s handbags, with men across the US and Europe sporting the mini, medium or maxi size tote in a plethora of colours. If we’re looking for a patient zero, it’s the Telfar ‘Bushwick Birkin’. “That was a statement piece; it fit your laptop without you having to carry a backpack like a bozo if you’re just meeting friends for drinks,” says Lawrence Schlossman, one-half of popular American menswear podcast duo Throwing Fits.
Opportunity is out there for brands to capture. Men’s bags grew 7 per cent in the 12 months ending January 2023, according to consumer behaviour advisory firm Circana (formerly NPD). The fastest growing categories versus both last year and pre-pandemic were crossbody bags and totes, says Beth Goldstein, Circana’s footwear and accessories analyst. Sling and crossbody styles continue to gain popularity to hold necessities and allow hands to be free, with designer bags representing 15 per cent of men’s bag sales, up 5 per cent since 2020. However, there’s still room to innovate in the space, experts agree, as choices remain limited and largely utilitarian.
Beyond the crossbody
The rise in men’s bags is in some ways a hangover from the crossbody bag trend which peaked in around 2018 in line with the streetwear boom, says Scherdel of Browns, referencing crossbody styles from the likes of Gucci and Supreme. “That’s when men’s bags were really put on the map as a category that could drive revenue,” he says, “I think it really changed the psyche in terms of how men’s customers were shopping because all of a sudden, very practical men’s consumers who were buying weekend bags, wash bags or backpacks to go to work were then all of a sudden buying fashion statement pieces. Men became more comfortable with just wearing a bag as an accessory rather than as a necessity.”
The crossbody still resonates with Nordstrom’s consumers today. “We’re seeing the street fashion aesthetic really being driven by the continued relevance of the crossbody bag at a price point of around $1,000,” says DeLeon. “Offerings from Burberry, Louboutin, Off-White and Versace are resonating with customers and there’s an interest in styles such as camera bags that offer more room for items like chargers and other daily essentials.”
