Move Over, Cowboy Copper—I Consulted the “Hairvoyant” on Fall’s Most Anticipated Color Trend

Since its inception in December 2022, the “cowboy copper” trend has shown no signs of slowing down—until now. I have nothing against the rich auburn hue and actually wanted to go red so badly, but we’ll be seeing slightly different, complementary versions take hold this fall. How do I know? Well, I asked the “hairvoyant” himself.

Hairstylist and forecaster Tom Smith (he coined the term cowboy copper as the leading color trend of 2023) has a knack for predicting hair trends, so I was champing at the bit to chat with him about what’s on the docket for fall 2024. He says warm, candlelit blondes and brunettes will succeed cowboy copper. “Objectively, warm tones in the hair will always make the hair shinier, healthier looking, [and] glow in the light,” he says. Below, discover two exact shades he suspects will dominate the season.

Sunflower Blonde

True to its name, sunflower blonde is a sunny hue that loads on the golden tones. “We saw a real push toward sunflower blonde in the turn of spring into summer, and it’s just gotten more and more popular,” Smith explains.

It’s also a natural next step for those with cowboy copper hair looking for a change, as the copper pigment is already quite warm. It’s relatively easier to switch to a similarly warm-toned hue than do a bunch of heavy lifting to achieve an icy look. Hairstylist Adam Livermore, global artist for Oribe, agrees. “Anyone who broke their base to get that copper color will have warm tones by their roots that are hard to correct anyway, so this is a good transitional color,” he says regarding a golden blonde.

We’ve seen this color crop up in a couple different ways: an intense, monochromatic gold with one shade of sunflower all the way through, like Gigi Hadid above, and a bronzy gold with a bit more contrast and dimension. (See Rihanna below.)

Note, intentionally golden tones are different from the yellow brassiness you might experience between dye jobs. “Golden tones, when you dye them in, make hair look really glossy and expensive,” Smith adds. You’ll still want to grab a color-depositing shampoo to maintain the vibrant hue (more on that later), or the effect might read too yellow over time.

Cinder Toffee Brunette

It’s been a rich brunette summer—there’s no doubt about that. Smith, however, suspects the hue will lean way more caramel-like this fall, a shade he calls cinder toffee or honeycomb brunette.

“Cinder toffee brunette is basically the brunette version of the sunflower blonde,” he shares. “It’s not that straightforward to add golden tones into brunette hair because gold typically lives on the lighter end of the spectrum, but that’s why this is such a powerful tool for brunettes. … If you choose something that’s too red toned, ashy, or natural, it can look quite dark and harsh against the skin. As soon as you put golden tones into brunette hair, it takes it away from being a heavy brunette and makes it a light, airy kind of brunette.”

Again, it’s a natural transitional color from cowboy copper since both hues have warm, golden tones. According to Smith, cinder toffee brunette also provides a solution for people who want to go darker but may be nervous that a rich hue will drain their skin tone, similar to how cowboy copper is a “safer” option for those wanting to dip their toe into redhead territory.

Which shade is right for you?

Sunflower blonde and cinder toffee brunette are essentially two sides of the same coin. Both are part of the “golden candlelight” family, so when choosing your hue, it really depends on whether you identify as a blonde or brunette. As Smith says, “99% of people have an immediate response to that, usually because of the shade of their hair when they were a kid. … They’re going to have a strong pull in one direction or the other.”

That being said, sunflower blonde includes a spectrum of hues, from gold to bronze where it sidles right up against cinder toffee brunette. “People can be inspired by these tones and actually mix them up in the same color design if they work with an experienced colorist,” Smith adds. In short, you can’t really go wrong when it comes to these warm tones.

“Most people look good with warm tones against her skin,” he continues. The color naturally complements those with warm undertones in their skin, and even naturally cool-toned folks can fare well with some warmth in their hair.

In terms of what to ask for at the salon, Smith recommends emphasizing golden tones to your colorist. If you want to try sunflower blonde, Smith says to say this: “I want to identify as a blonde and have really intense golden tones, but I don’t want it to tip over into that strawberry blonde, redhead territory.” As for cinder toffee brunette, you’ll want to opt for the lighter end of the brunette spectrum. “It’s really about a dominant golden tone. With the brunette, there’s a secondary tone of something a bit more caramelly and chocolatey,” he explains.

Of course, visual aids will be your BFFs. Smith suggests selecting at least three images of someone with a similar hair type with your desired color.

How to Maintain the Warm, Shiny Shades

Like I mentioned, there’s a big difference between shiny, golden shades and strands that take on a brassy quality. These products below will help keep your candlelit hue looking vibrant.