Inside The Growing Relationship Between Fashion And Luxury Hotels

From Armani Hotels to Palazzo Versace, the fashion and hospitality worlds have long been amicable bedfellows. Last year alone saw the Christian Louboutin and Karl Lagerfeld brands open five-star properties—respectively, the Vermelho Hotel in Melides, Portugal and The Karl Lagerfeld Macau in China. Then there are the recent designer x hotel crossovers, such as the Fendi Beach Club at Puente Romano in Marbella, Spain; the Valentino takeover at Palazzo Avino, in Ravello, Italy and the Sir Paul Smith Suite at Brown’s Hotel in London, to name but a few.

Launching next month at London-based The Other House (a sustainably-focused, private residents’ house), is ‘The Green Thread’, a partnership with sustainable design duo VIN + OMI. The project will act as a platform for innovation in design, culture and sustainability, with a fashion show kicking off the initiative on 2 April at The Other House South Kensington. The show will feature VIN + OMI’s latest collection called ‘Sci-Fi Magpie’ and will see Dame Prue Leith and Jo Wood walk the catwalk wearing textiles derived from waste plant material sourced from HM King Charles’ Sandringham Estate. Going forward, the designers will also advise The Other House on creative sustainability, as the group looks set to open The Other House Covent Garden in early 2025, with the integration of their designs, from art to fabrics, across the properties.

Meanwhile, giving the fashion-hospitality relationship a whole new different spin, is NO Uniform, a luxury design house which curates cutting-edge, sustainability-minded uniforms for leading names in hospitality. Nicholas Oakwell, the British haute couture designer who founded the brand, said he wanted to challenge the conventional notion of bland hospitality uniforms, which renders the wearer invisible, by offering innovative styles, vibrant hues and luxurious fabrics that truly reflect the luxury industry.

“We have all become more aware of design, whether it is our clothes, cars or interiors, and now, with social media, we are bombarded with it,” says Nicholas. “When it comes to a uniform, it’s often been overlooked, yet a hotel can extend its brand’s identity with the right piece; it can truly make a statement. A well-designed uniform is also important for staff, to give them a sense of belonging and to feel empowered to represent the brand.”

NO Uniform has conceived timeless concepts for prestigious brands, that range from historic hotels, such as Claridge’s, to renowned establishments, including Nobu and Fairmont. Each collection aims to accentuate the client’s identity with the uniforms becoming a key element of the guest experience. Specialising in new hotel openings, NO Uniform has recently partnered with Raffles & Fairmont, Doha and Fontainebleau Las Vegas, with previous projects also including Rosewood London, Corinthia London and The Goring Hotel.

Nicholas comments: “At NO Uniform, we consider ourselves ‘silent storytellers’ who transform fabric into narratives. We have a deep commitment to our future—emphasising sustainable and conscious fashion that stands the test of time. The era of customisation and personalisation has dawned, empowering consumers to express their unique identities through their clothing. In today’s dynamic hospitality sector, NO Uniform stands at the forefront, blending style and sustainability to provide bespoke, trend-setting uniforms that align with evolving industry demands.”

Applying a contemporary and conscious approach to uniform design, NO Uniform thinks practically, as well as fashionably, instilling unique local cultures and a brand’s essence throughout every collection. Each design goes beyond aesthetics, it says, using eco-friendly materials and supporting local artisans wherever possible.

“I love fashion, it’s who I am,” reveals Nicholas. “I also like to travel, not only to see different countries, but also for the hospitality—the food the culture. So, to have both these worlds collide was a dream come true. I have also seen the evolution of the hospitality world: from when the ‘lobby culture’ arrived in NYC, that then spread around the world, to celebrity chefs opening restaurants in hotels. All of this innovation inspires me; and I’m so lucky to be part of this everchanging world. I want employees to leave in their uniforms looking and feeling empowered. That is the power of fashion in hospitality.”

He continues: “We are all about celebrating the individual. But it’s also important for the team in their uniforms to reflect the brand. A lot of the time, we are designing a collection before the client has even hired the people for the role.”

“Recently, we have designed a piece for an upcoming client that has striking embroidery detailing on the arms—it was a way to give a nod to the brand’s Asian heritage. For another client, in Scotland, we have created a uniform that heavily references the property’s location, but in a way that feels elevated. The wardrobe consists of bias-cut tartan trousers, velvet jackets with satin trims and the odd glamorous, vibrant-blue cocktail dress.”

With over 35 years of experience in fashion design, Nicholas is perhaps best known for his beautifully-cut evening wear and flattering tailoring, worn by A-listers such as Hannah Waddingham, Hilary Swank, Helen Mirren and Gillian Anderson. His London atelier operates as a Parisian couture house—with every piece handmade. The designer kickstarted his career in 1989 as a milliner, when he saw his entire degree collection bought by Harvey Nichols. Some of these pieces can be seen today at the Victoria & Albert Museum, in the famous Ball Gown Collection.

“Through each hotel collaboration, NO Uniform aims to be part of an exceptional stay that each guest will expect—where luxury is not just felt in architecture and amenities but also acknowledged through the stylish uniforms worn by the staff,” he says.

Upcoming projects for 2024 are set to include the Mandarin Oriental in Mayfair, opening in the spring, and Red Carnation in Edinburgh, debuting as the brand’s first Scottish property.

“Looking ahead,” he says. “I believe there is a lot of untapped opportunity in the Middle East and Asia. I would love to compliment some of the mind-blowing design and architectural concepts with amazing wardrobes to match!”